Sunday, January 17, 2016

Bridge - Beautiful Food That Measures Up

Although I will not classify Bridge at Seah Street as a fine dining establishment, it certainly has food that bests it's nearby fine dining neighbours. More befitting of a high end bistro, it has a classy look and feel about it.

Helmed by a chef that used to work at Cornerhouse, I was anticipating some solid cooking at this joint, and I was not disappointed.

Sadly, this could be a case of an eatery that is also missing its core audience in an area where the majority of diners may not necessarily appreciate the chef's finesse and ambition.

For people so used to seeing second rate pastas and cheap knockoffs, Bridge's food actually reflects the solid cookery of the chef's former workplace. And then some.

The plates that are served here are all gorgeously executed, with a nod towards a modern aesthetic. And the flavours are equally measured and well thought out, and nary a gimmicky stunt present in any of the dishes.

Octopus

Not the meltiest eight legged creature that I have come across, but the texture will still do very well on any palate, and the requisite citrus sorbet that literally melts over the protein injects a lively fruity sauce over a colourful plate. The salad and kombu seals the deal simply and nicely.

Mary's Friend

Cheeky little title betrays a standard dish done exceptionally well. Perfect medium rare lack of lamb with the cleanest of frenching done, the nifty addition of parmesan chips and foams giving this dish such an intoxicating and inviting aroma. The sweet and baby butt smooth pumpkin puree provides the necessary balance.

Homarus

I actually like the single word naming of their dishes, such a refreshing change from the usual verbose titling you get in less confident restaurants. And this lobster and cous cous combination works well with its mixture of colourful components, playful textures and the ocean heavy flavours of the crustacean and squid ink infusions. As modern as it gets, and as easily charmed as any informed diner should be.

Holy Cow

Robin used to have this exclamation whenever Bruce lets out an important discovery in a case, and here, the chef keeps it simple. Whilst I may not let out the same excitement, the Kagoshima A4 wagyu does the job competently, and the simple accompaniment of truffle jus and carrots shows the immense restraint of the chef. Chefs elsewhere, do take note. Though, I would have preferred a little more starch on the side.

Forest Alba

I dread to review risotto these days, and thankfully, this is one that passes the mark on every count. The white truffles need no further clarification, but it's the cooking of the risotto that intrigues me most.

Looking at the picture above, it is clear the chef knows his risotto well. And despite the lengthy amount of time that we took before we ate it after it has been served, the risotto remained perfectly moist and creamy, not dry nor watery.

The grains had a great bite and not chalky, and the mantecare finish is well on point. All in all, this is a one excellent plate of risotto, coming from the snob himself. Chef Sky Chan has my absolute endorsement when it comes to risotto, and I will gladly go back for just the risotto sans the white truffles.

Pricewise, the menu does look a bit more pricey than the regular bistros that inhabit this area, but I will say it here. It is worth every penny. And honestly, your money is better spent here than on cafes churning out faux restaurant food.

The cooking here is sharp, precise and somewhat ambitious and yet, thoughtfully restrained at the same time. Presentation is first rate and modern, and the overall experience you get from the food should be a highly positive one.

Make no mistake about it, this is one for the books. Highly rated in the Silver Chef playbook.

Bridge
31 Seah Street

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